International Yoga Festival

Saturday (28) - Arriving at Parmarth Niketan Ashram

bought blanket

International Yoga Festival - Sunday 1
Today was the start of the International Yoga Festival in Rishikesh. This is the festival I just missed two years ago when I arrived from Paharganj, where I had attended the Dalai Lama's teachings for a few days. However, it was a divine plan that helped me walk into this ashram, of all the ashrams that are here in Rishikesh, and that is why I am here today. This year is the 8th year the festival is being held and there are almost 400 participants here. There were about 500 participants here last year, and the decline is probably due to the Mumbai bombings last year and the recession.

This morning I did not attend the Kundalini Sadhana (spiritual practice) which starts at 4am every day. My body was still adjusting to the cold temperature and recovering from the long journey, so I had decided to skip that session. I started at 6:30 doing Sukshma Yoga with Swami Yogananda who was born in 1909, i.e.: he is 99 years old. He was quite something, shouting orders very fiercely in another language while a translator gave us direction, although the Swami knows English and would occasionally speak some English. He started doing some simple warm-up exercises and then moved on to some asanas, but finished with some very advanced asanas, including Matsyendrasana with one leg in half lotus and Yoga Nidra (both legs behind the head), which of course nobody could do, especially since we in a large tent and was very cold.

We had some light snacks like a banana and a bit of porridge and tea and next I attended Deep Yoga with Bhava Ram and Sundari Ram. Bhava Ram has an interesting experience of Yoga, since he used Yoga and Ayurveda to heal his broken back and recover from stage 4 cancer. He started the class playing the guitar and chanting a mantra to Shiva, the father of yoga. The class was not very vigorous as I expect most classes will be, but I need to relinquish my attachment of the hard ashtanga asana practice for a while. What I am feeling though, is that because I am experiencing so many different yoga styles so quickly, I am feeling ungrounded, and this is another reasone I am missing my ashtanga practice... a regular practice and a practice that I know, and a grounding practice.

At 10:15 there was brunch, which is one of two big meals we have in the day. The food is extremely sweet, which I am not enjoying. The porridge is already prepared with so much sugar, you cannot taste the porridge, only the texture. I am missing the fruit salads and dosas I had in Mysore.

At 11:30 there was lecture in the big tent, which was not very interesting. The big tent that they have put up for the festival has been decorated nicely with white and gold linen sheets creating a false ceiling on which the monkeys like to climb and look at us through the gaps. One of them decided to pee right above me. Luckily it just missed me and went onto my yoga mat... I guess I was blessed by the Indian monkey god called Hanuman :-)

At 13:15 was the first Reiki session, which was a simple introduction. She will do this every day during the festival at the same time and if we attend all of the sessions we will gain the level 1 Reiki certification.
At 15:00 I attended the Shinto Yoga class. This was very interesting and it had a very big Japanese influence. We did sun salutations the shinto way, both standing and kneeling and then we did some things on our backs, which he said was like a fish writhing. We had to do it for thirty seconds or more, which became quite difficult. Towards the end I felt like I was back in a martial arts class when we were facing a partner holding there hand and trying to throw each other off balance, but it was a very playfull atmosphere which was enjoyable. At then end we each got a piece of paper and a pebble from the ganges, which he said will help us clear our minds while we practice Dharana (concentration).

At 17:00 was the welcoming ceremony, during which some of the boys at the school in the ashram showed us some yoga poses. They were incredible, but what struck me was that the poses were sloppy, just like Krishnamacharya in his 1938 video, which Nancy had mentioned during her retreat. According to the book "The Yoga Tradition of the Mysore Palace", it was only BKS Iyengar who introdruced precision into the asanas, and the west has taken this even further applying anatomical science. Afterwards was the evening aarti (devotional singing), which happens on the banks of the ganges every evening. At 19:00 was finally dinner. I am finding that I am extremely hungry here, even though I am eating a lot, which I think is due to the colder temperatures. After dinner there were Indian cultural dances, which went on until just before 22:00.

IYF - Monday 2
I was late for the 6:30 class, so instead I decided to practice Ashtanga in the room, which by the way I am sharing with Prana, a guy who runs the ZenDen Mountain Retreat near Cape Town. The space was cramped but it felt good and I got up to Janu Shirshasana and then did finishing sequence so that I would be in time for the next class, which was Kundalini Yoga with Gurmukh Kaur Khalsa. She seems to be a big favourite with everybody and she seems to have been teaching at the festival for years already. She does not teach in the tent or in one of the large rooms in the three story building, but she teaches on the ghat (steps next to the ganges river). Yesterday I did not want to do this because I was very cold, but it had actually warmed up a bit since I arrived on Saturday and when I got onto the ghat I was happy I came, because it was so very beautiful.

I had attended very few Kundalini classes before and hated all of them until I did Gurmukh's workshop in South Africa last year in May. I did enjoy it, but I was still not convinced this was my cup of tea, so I had a little worry in the back of my mind. I did not need to worry though, because the Kundalini Yoga class was fantastic. Gurmukh's theme was one of Yogi Bhajan's (founder of this lineage of Kundalini yoga) sayings, "Understand through compassion, otherwise you will missunderstand the times", and she talked about the fact that we all pick our parents, our bodies etc through our karma and that we make a living by what we get, but that we live by what we give. Then she made us shake our bodies while sitting with our arms raised above our heads for about ten minutes and then another eight minutes standing up. I think my shoulders felt like my arms were lead after the first minute, but then the pain subsided and I could hold my arms up throughout and I felt elated. The session was quite similar to what Gurmukh had taught in South Africa. We finished by clapping hands while sitting in a circle in groups of four, chanting "Sat Nam", "Har" and "I god, you god".

Then we had breakfast at around eleven and I did not attend the lecture afterwards. The Reiki was very nice and we learnt more about the seven energy centres or chakras in our bodies. I then did the Vyayam Yoga session, which I found very interesting. The only problem I had with the session, like so many Indian teachers, they do not introduce themselves or their session. He started by singing and playing the harmonium with two assistants. He then did pranayama with us, but while we were doing the pranayama (seated) there was a lot of arm movement and mudras that we had to do.
He then handed over to one of his assistants, a young teenager I think with a shaved head, except for some long hair flowing down from the top portion of the back of her head. This seems to be something a lot of kids do here... need to find out more about this. Anyway, she then took us through some movements and explained that the movement follows the breath, so this was very similar to ashtanga, and the breath was also ujjayi. The movements were very circular and flowing continuously, there were no postures and the whole system is based on a system used by ancient Indian warriors, so one movement for instance was supposed to look like drawing a sword from the sheath. The hands and arms move with strength in the muscles, however, we should not be thinking of the muscles moving the body, but the breath, which is exactly what Gurmukh was teaching in the Kundalini class this morning.

I then went and had a "swim", more like a quick three dips in the cold waters of mother ganga with my room mate Prana. We bought a ready made small basket of flowers with a candle, lit the candle and sent it down the river before we entered the water.

Brunch at 10:30 and Dinner at 19:00 are almost always the same with two types of rice, dhal, kitcheree, chapati and naan, some vegetables such as carrots and green beans and sometimes some ochre. So it is very monotonous, but the desert is always different. Today was gulab jamoon and I had a total of nine of them... they were sooooo good! After dinner was satsang (divine association) with Pujya Swamiji, who is the head of the ashram where the festival is at. Pujya Swamiji seems to be a very well known spiritual leader, as I have seen pictures of him with the Dalai Lama, with Bill Clinton and with the Israely Prime Minister. Swamiji's right hand person, an american lady, who renounced the material life to lead a spiritual life of service to others unser Swamiji's guidance, who lives at the ashram talked about the first two yamas from the eight limbs of Ashtanga Yoga, namely Ahimsa (non-violence) and Satya (Truth). Ahimsa included mentioning that we should not eat meat as this could save our lives, our families lives and the earths life. Apparently there is no food shortage in the world, only a distribution problem, as we feed the grain to cows, chicken and pigs, that could feed the poor instead. Regarding truth, she said that we should always ensure that our words serve a purpose and are kind. She used the metaphor of the monks cleaning a clay Buddha and finding gold in a crack and then discovering that there is a clay Buddha hidden behind the clay, which was put on the statue to protect it from warriors who were marauding the country. The truth does not always need to be the cold heartless facts that are required in a court of law.
Pujya Swamiji was then asked a question about how we can make a difference considering all the poverty around us and he answered that we should live a simple life and give to those in need.

IYF - Tuesday 3
In the morning I attended a Kriya Yoga or Nada Yoga session with Sadhvi Abha Saraswati, who gives month long training to lead chants. We started off with some pranayama exercises and then went onto singing the Vaidika Shanti Mantra and she was really good because she actually was very clear on which syllables are high notes and low notes. There are only three notes, the middle one being the same as OM. There is a fourth note, which is a double note, which she explained in the Gaayatri Mahaa Mantra, which I have already mentioned in my blog about Kirtan with James. Then we moved onto the Mrtyujaya Mantra, which I love and we finished with the Asatoma chant. I can only tell you what the names of the mantras are because she actually handed out books with the words, so that is quiet nice!!!

After a quick snack I headed off for another session of Kundalini Yoga with Gurmukh. My calves are stiff from jumping around yesterday. She actually arrived on time today and was quite funny when she welcomed the newcomers, saying that those of us who attended the first few sessions will have stopped wondering, "Where are the downdogs?" as there are none. Kundalini is very different to normal Hatha yoga, and I can only remember doing one asana with her so far, namely Ushtrasana (Camel pose). Today she actually made us hold camel pose for a full three minutes while chanting "I will not take the bait" (of complaining and having a normal negative mindset). She gave us another hard class with the theme being another of Yogi Bhajans sayings "See others as yourself." My shoulders were really saw from her class because we were holding up our arms almost the entire class starting at 8:15 and she ended late again at 10:40. The partner work I did with Indra whom I had met in Mysore. She is from Malaysia and actually taught a workshop on kids yoga in Mysore, which I had missed. The end of the class was very enjoyable. Gurmukh asked an american lady who had studied Bangra dancing in India for six years to lead us in dancing bangra to two songs after which we got into a huge circle holding hands and singing and then repeating something the Dalai Lama had said.

After the big brunch, was a lecture with Pujya Swamiji during which he talked about what it means to be a yogi. It mainly means that a yogi is always content - santosha (one of the niyamas in Patanjalis Yoga Sutras). We should always be content. The reason people are unhappy is because they constantly want more and he said when he came to Rishikesh there were no shops between the ashram and Laksman Jhula (pedestrian bridge) and Ram Jhula did not exist, so people had to walk (this side of the ganges river is a pedestrian only zone) all the way up to Lakshman Jhula to go buy something and people were happy with that. He talked about a poor beggar within whom he saw a yogi, because the beggar was not complaining. He said god wanted him there, and his journey was over.
He also said that everybody we worship today is someone who had special powers, and that those people went through tests without complaining and always used their powers or gifts to help others and never to help themselves. We should accept the divine plan.
He made two other points, namely that we need to be consistent and that we should practice moderation and he finished by saying that the yamas and niyamas are the foundation of yoga - union with the divine. We can miss our asana and pranayama practice, but we should always keep the connection with the people around us and see the divine in everyone.
After some questions he concluded saying that the most important of the yamas and niyamas is surrender!

Afterwards was another Reiki session and then I wanted to attend the Om Meditation session, but I went to my room as I was in a bit of pain and have trouble sitting. Don't know exactly when I got hurt, but hopefully my left QL muscle will recover soon. In the evening after dinner was a cultural musical performance in the tent organised by the Uttarakhand (state) Tourism Department. It was absolutely fantastic. I was very unhappy because my camera battery packed up! What was also sad was that hardly any of the yogi's attending the IYF actually attended. I was there with Almendra from Mexico and Jetal from the USA. There were probably less than 10 others. However, lots of Indian people from outside had come including lots of kids, as well as all the Rishikumars (orphans and other poor kids going to school in the ashram) of course.

IYF - Wednesday 4
The program for today was slightly different in that there were no classes at 6:30, instead there was a walk up behind the ashram into the Himalayas with Pujya Swamiji. He seems quite fit because the pace was quite good. The walk was only an hour, so I was disappointed when we had to turn back. Afterwards I decided not to do Kundalini again as my back was still not happy. There were quite a number of other people who had sore legs or other complaints from the Kundalini yoga. I attended the Deep Yoga (San Diego) class again, which was very new agey again, but it is very grounding and nurturing.

At Brunch they served masala dosas today, which everybody enjoyed. The lecture today was with Dr David Frawley and his wife on Lord Shiva and Shakti energies. I had bought one of Dr Frawley's books during the trip on Ayurveda and yoga, and everybody else also seemed quite excited about the lecture, as he is I think the only westerner ever to have officially been recognised as a master of Vedanta. Kerry had heard him speak before the last time she came to the conference and said he was too intellectual and she went to bed as she had had no sleep. The lecture was very intellectual and Iola from Cape Town just immediately lay down and dozed because it was straight over the top of her head. I started taking notes furiously, but there was so much new information I could not keep up. I was also lying down on my chest so that I could take notes and not feel any pain, but lying down was not conducive to staying alert. At one stage I realised that his wife was speaking and I did not remember when she took over from him.

Straight afterwards was another Reiki session, and then into another session, so three sessions back to back, one and a half hours long each. The third session I chose to go to a Kundalini yoga class taught by Siddhi, an elderly german lady, who teaches hand mudras. Other people had loved her class and I also really enjoyed it, but again not something that I see myself practicing daily in the near future. We basically sat for the entire one and a half hours, learnt several mudras and then she put on some music and we would do the mudras in a sequence chanting to the music at the same time, so it was quite enjoyable.

IYF - Thursday 5
Sat-chit-anand

IYF - Friday 6

Final week in Mysore

Monday (23) - Shivavratri
Today is Shivavratri, so it is public holiday and there is no practice. Guruji is devotee of Shiva, and traditionally Shiva is regarded as the lord of the yogis. The first thing I did in the morning is drive into town and have breakfast at the Hotel Original Mylari. I mentioned this last week Friday in my blog when I went searching for it. They only serve dosas and idlis, so they are their specialty. I had eater here two years ago with Myra and Jay. A plate of 3 idli's or a dosa is Rs 13 and I had five in total :-). Feeling satisfied I hopped onto my scooter and drove up Chamundi hill to the temple. Two years ago I had been up two or three times, and had walked up the 1000 or more steps. This trip I had not been up once, so it was time I went and it was also a good occasion to do it because it was Shivavratri and people are all going to the temple's to do Puja. Chamundi Hill is apparently one of the eight sacred hills in South India. I had never driven up by myself, so it was a fun new experience. At the top I also visited the "Godly Museum", which is run by the Brahma Kumaris. It was a room containing murals explaining Raja Yoga, the science for attaining purity, peace and bliss, as taught by Shiva, the lord of the yogis.

When I got home at about 10:30 I joined five other yogis at Ganesh's place to do yoga nidra. Before we started Ganesh told us a little of what Shiva represents in the Vedic and Tantric traditions which was very interesting. I don't know if this is all right, because Ganesh is very difficult to understand. He cannot pronounce F. Sanskrit does not use F and he uses P instead, and he cannot say sh, which sounds like s, so when he was trying to talk about a fish, we all took some time to figure out what he was trying to say... Anyway, the E represents energy in Sheva and without E, it becomes Shva, which is death in sanskrit I think. The lingam of Shiva represents the universe and the womb (female). He told us of a story that Sheva asked Brahma and Vishnu to find the ends of the universe. Vishnu became and eagle and flew down to find the end but could not find it. He came back and was honest and said he could not find the bounds of the universe. Brahma became the swan and flew up to find it. He also could not find it, but bribed a flower to be his witness that he had found the edge. When he returned with the flower, Shiva knew he was lying and cursed the flower. The flower is apparently very very beautiful, but it is now never used in worship, and it has no scent. Sheva also cursed Brahma, and Ganesh said that you will find many temples worshipping Vishnu and Shiva in India, but none worshipping Brahma.
He also talked about the consciousness of both Parvati and Shiva being united and this represents brahmacharya, being married to one woman and this gives man the ability to stay focused. This relates to the what Sharath was talking about at conference yesterday.
The Yoga Nidra was an hour long today and again was really deep. The hour absolutely flew by, so really fantastic... and cannot pinpoint how he does it, but when I do lie down after my practice to meditate it is never this deep or feels this quick even though is is only ten to fifteen minutes.
Afterwards Amy and I went and had some fuit salad and she told me a little about Richard Freeman's Teacher Training. By then it was already 2pm and I went home to "take rest".

Sometime after four I went to the Ice Cream corner and had four scoops of ice cream after which I drove into town. Sauhardy bookstore was closed but I went into Rashinkar and spend over two hours looking at books. When I came out it was already 19:30 and the palace was all lit up, which normally only happens on Sundays between 7 and 8pm. On this trip I have not had a chance to do this, so this was my last opportunity. It was so beautiful seeing the palace and the huge walls surrounding the palace all lit up but I did not have my camera with me... I drove around the palace and then went home to get my camera hoping that the palace will still be lit when I got back, because it was Shivavratri, but that was not going to happen. By the time I got back it was back to normal lighting, but I spent time in the palace grounds watching the people lining up to do puja in the temple, kids and families playing in the gardens. Everybody loves having their picture taken, and people are all in a very good mood.

Tuesday (24) - Day trip
This morning I woke up at 8 and went to the maha idli man and had 5 dosas and 2 idli for 26 Rs. I knew that this was going to be the last time I would see him in a very long time, if ever, which was a sad thing. Mysore is a very beautiful city with lots of parks and green spaces, some really good restaurants and shops, a wonderful community of yogis, a yoga tradition second to none and a lot of history it can be proud of and it has become like a home for me. I have spent 2 months already here in total and have gotten to know the city very well and am often telling new people where to go and what to do.
After breakfast I wondered around the area and took some photographs of daily Indian life and then I drove to guruji's old shala and took photo's of it. I then went back home and spent 3 hours on the net. I was worried about getting a sunburn and decided to browse on the net even though I had planned to go on a day trip to the Bird Sanctuary and Srirangapatna.

By one o'clock, I really had enough of the internet though. I went home, shaved my head again and then by two I was on the KRS road towards Bangalore, with the sun beating down on my left. I found some boys swimming in the river and took some photographs. The bird sanctuary was nothing spectacular, however, the tranquility was wonderful and rejuvenating. I then went in search of the town of Srirangapatna, which contains the ruins of Hyder Ali and Sultan Tipu's capital, from which they ruled much of southern India during the 18th century. In 1799, the British defeated them and this marked the start of British expansion into southern India. At first I was very disappointed when I found it, because all I saw were some broken walls with lots of litter, but as I drove further into town, I found more of the ruins with actual signs indicating what they were. Seeing the ruins would definitely require a lot of walking if you did not have your own mode of transport, as they were very dispersed. I spent quite a bit of time there and by the time I was ready to head back home it was already after 5pm.

On my way back I drove to Sapna Book store to buy copies of the Mahabharata and Ramayana. There are many english translations of these Indian epics and I had been researching and asking people which one would be the best to get. James, the sanskrit student leading the Kirtans on Wednesdays, asked his Indian teachers and they suggested a particular auther, C. Rajagopalachari, who also happended to be a statesman and politician in India and a close associate of Mahatma Ghandi, who had written the books in Tamil and then rewrote them in English. During the morning I had looked at reviews on Amazon and decided that I was happy with this version.

I then went to meet Beth and Stuart, whom I met in Kovalam four weeks ago, at the Cafe Amarena across from the Mysore Palace. Stuart has just arrived and Beth has been staying at the Mysore Mandala Yogashala and she had written me an email some time ago wanting to buy me a drink as I had apparently helped her achieve the jump throughs. We chatted and had dinner until 9, when I finally left.

Wednesday (25) -
hit in the kahunas

lunch at stand up

speak to Sharath

shopping in town, bought the abridged Ramayana and a book on meditation as well as a lungi

Bombay Tiffany's

Thursday (26) - Final Massage
3 new poses

Final massage

Sandhya

washing

sanskrit

Chocolate

yoga bag, kurta, T-shirt

Robyn

Bombay Tiffany's Kaju Laddu, Jalebi, Mysore Pak, Kheer Khadam Basundi made with semolina

Friday (27) - Travelling to Rishikesh
lead class

Third Week in Mysore

Monday (16) - More books
When I got to the shala in the morning at around 6:25 (6:40 shala time), almost an hour before my alloted time the week before, the foyer was full of people already waiting. It seemed that a lot of people were doing what I was doing. I waited for all the people in front of me to get a space and by the time I got a space it was five to seven. Today's practice was good. I am now doing Pashasana and going straight into back-bends without waiting for Sharath to give me another pose, but I am doing Pashasana twice each side. Saraswati came to help me with backbending today and I am feeling my backbends being really deep, but I don't feel any pain and my SI pain from last week is also gone.

At the massage course we finished the front of the legs and afterwards I went to the Sapna bookstore and then back to Ashok bookstores in town where I found the book "The Yoga tradition of the Mysore Palace", which I skimmed through. It mentioned that Krishnamacharya opened his yoga school in 1901 and that the numbers of yoga students in those days already were declining (today there are very few Indians doing yoga) and that he had to close his school in 1950. I drew parallels to Joseph Pilates who dreamed of his exercise method to be popularized around the world. Now look at Pilates and Yoga around the world. Both Krishnamacharya and Pilates never saw in their lifetime how popular their contribution to humanity would become. The book also revealed that vinyasa (breath and movement) seemed to be the traditional style of yoga and Iyengar changed this to hold poses for ten to fifteen minutes and seperate pranayama, as he believed the movement distracted from the concentration of the mind during the pose and he brought more precision into each pose.

On the way home I visited the Ramakrishna bookstore, which is incredibly cheap. It has material on all religions including Zoroastrianism, Christianity, Islam etc and little books explaining things like Vedanta Philosophy, meditation etc. India really is the most spiritual country in the world I think, except maybe Tibet. In 5000 years of its history India has also never waged war against any other nation, but has been invaded many times. I bought something on Vedanta Philosophy.

In the Contact Improvisation course we worked on giving weight to each other, i.e.: finding the spots on the body where we could place weight when dancing with each other and we ended with a dance which felt fantastic. My gripe about the course is that we usually start 15 mins late and then the beginning of the session is terribly slow and Yanael tends to demonstrate something for so long it becomes boring. So we ended late.

Tuesday (17) - Food tastes and ayurveda
Saraswati helped me in backbends again today and I am feeling neglected by Sharath :-(

During the massage course we went around telling each other which dosha we thought they were. I know I am a strong pitta person, but I thought my second dominant dosha was kapha as I am usually quiet and observe people rather than speaking and a few other indicators, but everybody including Kumar said that my second dominant dosha was vata. Very interesting as I definitely have never considered myself to be a giving person, but I am obviously going to observe myself more closely now. I know that while I am on holiday and more relaxed, I am a little bit more extroverted and talkative than usual.
We then went through the six different tastes in ayurveda and how they affect each dosha. I was very happy that sweet food, which includes milk, rice and other carbohydrates, are cooling and therefore good for pitta people like me. I think it explains why I love sweet food so much :-) !!!
We then learnt how to massage the arms.

In the afternoon I went back to Janiki's for lunch. I was the only one there until Ganesh, Iiling and Dimitris arrived. Kumar had told us that in South India they eat the sweet food first to seal the stomach a little, so that they do not overeat. That is why when you order Tali, the sweets are served with the rice and dal and everything else. I tried this method, but it did not help, I still made a pig of myself and ate till I almost popped!

I then had a lazy afternoon. My intention was to look for some clothes for myself... I have already spent half my stay in India and have still not bought myself anything to wear, whereas everybody else buys themselves things in the first week and they mostly wear these Indian clothes.

In the Contact Improvisation course we worked on working from the centre, extending creating long diagonal lines and contracting again. I found it terribly slow again and at the end we did a round robin where we sat in a circle and two people danced toghether in the middle and people sitting could at any time cut in and one of the dancers would sit back down. I unfortunately let Eva drop... ouch.

I had been very disciplined the last four weeks only eating chocolate twice I think but tonight I went to Cubs twice to buy chocolate. This was emotional eating because I was a little down after the Contact Improvisation. I also tasted their Masala biscuits, which were very spicy, like chillie!!! They also have salt biscuits, which are not like salt crackers but look sweet like normal biscuits. In India they also serve salt lassies. I had learnt today that one of the ayurveda tastes is salty and in India they eat a lot of salt because it retains water, good for the south Indian climate, but very unpopular in the west.

Wednesday (18) - Contact Improvisation
I had a really bad night... I stayed up writing the blog until 1 am and I was woken up somewhere after 4 by mosquitos, which happened to be a nightly occurence. I couldn't figure out why, because I had bought a new mosquito repellent that you plug into the wall when I moved in. It was obviously a problem when there was a power outage but this was not the fact this early in the morning. Eventually I figured out that the room was probably just too big, so I moved the repellent to a plug closer to my bed and this seemed to work, but I only had about 3 hours sleep. My practice went alright although my back was a little tight from something that I did in the dancing the night before. I figure that I must forget about Sharath giving me another posture on this trip :-)

My stomach was not that great after all the biscuits and chocolate the night before so this morning I had a small bowl of fruit as opposed to the big one and a spirulina & mint drink. I shaved my head again this morning and it feels so good... am thinking that I want to keep it shaved when I get home.

At the massage course we discussed the animosity between the Muslims and Indians and I found out that Diana (mexican girl doing the course) had been engaged to an Indian brahman, but it did not work out because his family did not accept him. We then revised the arms and learnt part one of massaging the stomach and chest. A new girl from Japan, Hiromi, joined us, as she will not be in Mysore to complete the next course, so she is doing the end of the course with us. She was my partner today. Of course, everything was very new to her, but we enjoyed working together I think.

I then went to the maha idli man in Laksmi Purim to find out until when he serves idli because I still had not been able to take Mel and Kerry there. He was extremely busy serving lunch... no idlis or dosas, so I had a big plate of rice with sambar, veggies and a paratha for lunch for Rs 15. Of course the plate and the spoon were wet so again I was a bit worried that I would get sick. Afterwards I went to Kirtan with James. I was very tired, and singing with my eyes closed did not help matters :-)

At 17:00 was the last Contact Improvisation session. We had decided to invite some friends to come watch or join if they felt like it, but these visitors would only arrive an hour into our session so that we could work a little before going into the dance. The girls bought some snacks and bought loads of flowers that they put on plates around the roof, demarcated a little walkway with flowers and had bags of little flowers for the visitors to throw at us. They remarked how cheap it was and that it would have cost like two hundred pounds in the UK for all the flowers. It was a really nice evening and afterwards the visitors started playing drums and even an accordion.

Thursday (19) - Hotel Mylari (Dosas)
I practiced next to Vera, a portuguese girl, today. It just so happened that we both ended doing Paschaasana at exactly the same time. Vera cannot bind and Saraswati came over to help her and when she bent down, her rear end came towards me so I fell out of the posture. Sharath saw this and just asked "Why?". I could just smile... I do not know if he saw what actually happened.

During the massage course we discussed how we help the individual who comes to us for a massage as they are coming for a specific reason, finding out what that reason is and realising that we cannot help that person unless they take responsibility for their own injuries. Then we continued with the second part of stomach and chest.

For lunch I went back to Janiki's and I met some people who gave me the directions to Hotel Mylari, which is the place that specialises in dosas, where I had gone with Myra and Jay after climbing Chamundi Hill two years ago. In the afternoon was sanskrit level 2 and chanting again.

I met Kerry and Mel for dinner at Tina's and then had some cake at Cubs with them. The cake was very synthetic, but I bought some more chocolate.

Friday (20) - Kerry and Mel leaving
This morning was lead class with Saraswati and after my usual big bowl of fruit salad for breakfast at Tina's. At the massage course we talked about how our experiences in childhood affect us and the emotions we store in our bodies and the energies that we emit from our bodies. He said we can heal our bodies by expressing stored emotions - this comes from his Past Life Healing experience I think. We then continued learning about massaging the face, which was quite difficult actually and quite strange having oil smeared all over your face by a stranger!

I then drove to town and did some shopping for gifts, bought some more books... I have realised that I have an addiction in India... buying books... I have no idea how I will carry everything home :-). Afterwards I found the Hotel Original Mylari, which I had got the directions for on Tuesday. It is not the same Hotel Mylari I went to two years ago, but I do not know which one is the "original" one.

In the afternoon I met Indra, who is leaving Mysore, at Alia's. Then I quickly made a stop over at Iman's place as she is having a birthday party. Iman had gone to a lot of effort to set up a markee on the roof of her apartment, lots of flowers etc. I could not stay long because I had to be in Lakshmi Purim at 18:30 for dinner at Nagarathna's for Kerry and Mel's final dinner in Mysore. They are leaving tomorrow, but I will see them again at the International Yoga Festival in a week. The food was absolutely fantastic again. I think we were about 10 people and the food just kept coming. I was so stuffed afterwards and we had a good time. Afterwards I went back to Iman's party, but did not really connect with anyone so I went home.

Saturday (21) - Ice Cream!
I had a very big and expensive breakfast at Alia's Om Cafe: toast with humus, pancakes, and afterwards french toast. We had massage course today so that we could take Monday and Tuesday off. We discussed dealing with emotions, our own and that of the client, during the massage and then we learnt how to do a shoulder massage. Afterwards I went to the pool at the Southern Star for the first time on this trip to Mysore. I had a nice chat to a german guy and an american girl who had met in Australia and she was now moving to germany and they were planning to get married after he graduated in one and half years. They invited me to their party tomorrow night.

I then joined some guys for some gelato at Just Gelato. Of course I had to go back for seconds. The Coconut flavour is awesome. I then finally bought myself some clothes from Sudha. She has a shop in a garage in the street I live in, but she is not always there and everytime I have gone passed she was closed. She had some nice stuff. Lots of yogis buy from her. I also went past Vastra and picked up some pants there.

For dinner I met Garth and some others at 6th on Main. It was Garth's final dinner, as he was leaving tomorrow night after the party. The food was delicious and afterwards they introduced me to the "Ice Cream Corner". So of course I was ecstatic! I will definitely go back there soon.

Sunday (24) - Conference
After lead class I watched second series again and then went to get breakfast as I did not feel like going to the green market today.. Santosha had sign up, closed until Wednesday, Tina is closed on Sundays and by the time I had found all of this out, there was not much time left, so I rushed to get my scooter and drove to the new location of the stand up cafe, that David told me about at the pool yesterday. The food was good and I actually went back for lunch.

At Kumar's, we continued the discussions about dealing with emotions and then learnt how to massage the head. In the afternoon I had sanskrit. I had missed Tuesday and today was a test. I was lost and did not enjoy it very much.

After chanting was the conference with Sharath, which was very good today. He started off talking about the breath in our practice. This is what he started talking about last week when he was told the news about Guruji being ill. Guruji is much better by the way. They found something in his oesophagus, which they are treating and he is now eating properly and is now walking around again with help.
Sharath told us that he had seen demo's in Mysore where the yogi's took a huge gulp of air with open mouths before dropping back into back bends, which we all laughed at. His point was that we have to breathe through the nose and he explained that from his experience he gets more energy this way. I love it when he talks about his personal experiences. He told us that when he was seven, around the time Nancy, who was in the audience, first came to practice with guruji, he started playing around with asanas, but it was only in 1990, when he was 19, that he started doing Ashtanga seriously. He also said that he had also tried body building when he was a student, when he talked about the fact that some yogi's have a very bendy body, but cannot do a headstand because they don't have the bandhas. His point was that yoga needs to give you internal strength and stamina too. He said some yogis do 6 advanced postures in their practice, but when you ask them to do 35 postures in a flowing sequence they die. The breath is what allows you to have energy and stamina. He said that we can only begin pranayama practice once we have mastered the bandhas and have developed a good asana practice with ujjayi breath. Pranayama must include lots of kumbaka (holding the breath) for a long time.
He said that it took him 2 years to realize the benefits of a disciplined regular practice and he said that everybody will feel that within 2 years, which I relate to. It has been two years since my last visit here, which is when I started becoming serious about my yoga practice. He talked about having to drive from his home in the rain at two o'clock in the morning to guruji's shala to practice while guruji was watching him and then helping guruji teach. He said that until two years ago, after he had been practicing Ashtanga for 19 years already, guruji still watched him practice, making sure that he performed the asanas correctly.
He told us that guruji made him do Advanced A and then Advanced C series after another to show him that using the breath, he could sustain the energy in his body. He also told us that once he went deep into Eka Pada Rajakapotasana (One Foot King Pigeon Pose) last posture in Advanced A, and he heard a huge crack in his upper back. When he got home he could hardly move and guruji phoned him that day saying that he had to do a demo in Mysore. (He explained that he could not tell guruji that he couldn't do it). He does not know how he did it, but him and another student, a relative, did the demo, but afterwards he could not move for 15 days. His point I think was that using the breath, he was able to do this.

Somebody then asked him if he had any trouble balancing his home life with his dedication to his practice. Sharath was quite funny in his response. He immediately said that he had absolutely no problems. He explained that in India, they only marry one person, not like in the west, where you have so many choices. He gave the example of guruji and his wife being together for 65 years. He said that being married to his wife and having a family meant that he was not distracted and can concentrate on his practice. He recommends that all yogi's get married!

He finished by saying that tomorrow (a public holiday) we should go to the Shiva temple and we are not allowed to ask for money or anything else, we must all ask for discipline in our yoga practice.

Garth and I then went to the Pizza Hut to buy some Pizza and garlic bread for the potluck party we had been invited to. The party was great fun and the house Teresa and Shauna are staying it is awesome. It is painted bright pink, so it was not difficult to find. The owner and his brother are architect and engineers and they had quite an interesting design and had even built a meditation room on top of a reading room.

First week in Mysore

Monday (2) - first practice in the shala
I arrived at 8:15 (8:30 shala time) and the foyer was already quite full with people waiting for a spot in the shala. Sharath would regularly come to the foyer and see students that have been here for a while and give them new earlier time slots for the next day and they would be allowed in first when somebody finished their practice. I had to wait about twenty minutes before I could get in. I got a spot right in front of the podium, so I had to watch that I did not bang my head on the step each time I jumped back during the sun salutations. My practice felt good and went by in no time at all. I knew I was not allowed to move into second for at least the first week and then only when Sharath actually gives me the first posture of the second series. My back bending was a little tight because I had not done the practice in two days but when I came up by myself, Sharath came to me and said, "You take it easy... first day!" meaning that I should not do drop backs today. The energy in the shala was high as usual, which I found a little distracting to my "moving meditation" and of course you have Sharath and Saraswati constantly shouting "Next" when a new space opens up!
There was a woman practicing next to me and Sharath saw her doing something wrong and she did not correct it immediately when he shouted the correction to her, so he told her that she must come to the beginner's class tomorrow with Saraswati. Sylvia told me afterwards, that her practice was extremely fast also and when she heard Sharath tell the woman to come to beginners class, she was shi***ng herself :-).

I met Sylvia for lunch and we went to the Green Leaf for a South Indian Thali. In the afternoon I went to the shala to register for the second level Sanskrit course and then I spoke to Lara and Matthias who both offer Thai Yoga Massage courses. The universe did not seem to want me to do these because the dates or times of both courses weren't possible for me. I had also read about an Ayurvedic Massage course with Dr Kumar and I thought that I would rather do the Thai Yoga Massage course in Thailand and do an Ayurvedic Massage course here in India. I eventually got hold of Dr Kumar on the phone and registered for the course, which starts next Tuesday.
By the evening I still had no appetite which is strange for me and at 7 I suddenly felt quite ill. Something at Green Leaf had not been so kosher and two hours later, my body purged itself of everything in it, after which I thankfully fell asleep and had almost 8 hours sleep, which was good.

Tuesday (3) -
I woke up just before 5am and spent the morning relaxing until my practice time. My practice was quite hard due to a lack of energy. Afterwards I found where Tina had moved to, but it was not as nice as it used to be. The garden in her new home which she used as the seating area was more open, so less cosy, there were fewer people and I just did not have the same vibe. I then met Mel and Kerry at Santosha, a place that had not been around 2 years ago. It was much like Tina's old place, seating on cushions in and around the house with low tables, but it was run by a western couple. The food was fantastic, there were more people around still (even though it was 11:30 by now) and it had a friendly atmosphere. They are planning a party for Friday night with Rs 400 entrance, which will go to an orphanage. 95 people had already registered.

The rest of the afternoon was spent chilling until my Sanskrit course at 16:45 and then the chanting course. Afterwards I met Mel and Kerry at Tina's restaurant for supper. We had a very good discussion about yoga not being a sport, but a lifestyle and how it can change your belief system.

Wednesday (4)
My practice was uneventful until Sharath came to me during my back-bending. I was pretty stupid because I was waiting for Sharath to push me, verbally telling me to walk my hands in more, but he did not. He pulled me back up quite quickly and said to me "You work harder"! I guess that was a reprimand :-).

Afterwards, I had a big bowl of fruit at Tina's home where she serves breakfast. Still the best place for a big fruit salad! I was watching some of the westerners eat, mentally noting that Indian people would laugh at us because we use our left hand to put food in our mouths. Very few Indians use toilet paper and they wash themselves with their left hand, so the right hand is used to put food in their mouths.

In the afternoon I met Noah Williams, who is supposed to be a great teacher who is also based in Hawaii like Nancy. He was telling some yogi's how he had this bulge coming out of his abdomen on his right side, which was excruciatingly painful and constantly feels like he had been kicked in the balls. He was quite funny when he described how he was thinking that he might be sitting on his balls while riding his scooter. I knew exactly what it was, because of my recent experiences regarding the long time it took to diagnose the start of an inguinal hernia on my right side. When he explained that before the hernia happened in Dwi Pada Sirshasana (both legs behind the head), he had dropped his bike and felt a tearing in his left obliques, I remembered that before I got the hernia, I had pain in my left oblique muscles for a long time doing Marichyasana D (deep twist).
The we all shared the stories of how we got involved in Ashtanga and I realized that the girl sitting next to me was the receptionist at the Miami Life Center (Kino McGregor's studio) when I was on my business trip to the USA in December 2007 and visited the studio for a few days. She remembered "the South African", who bought all the books. It is quite interesting how the universe brings people together.

The rest of the day I spent chilling at home and actually slept a little. I think I should make better use of my time before I start the massage course. In the evening I met Sylvia and Miranda at Tina's restaurant and I arranged with Sylvia to go shopping at Fab India tomorrow and I am trying to arrange a trip to the Tibetan community on Monday, which is moon-day (no practice). I did not eat anything as I was not hungry. I was craving something cold. In India they make something called a lassie, which is made with curd and is quite refreshing. I don't normally like curd, but the lassies are quite nice, similar to a milkshake. Keeping ice cream frozen in India is difficult because of the constant power outages. In Kovalam, there was a power outage for half an hour every night at a specific time, which they change every week, but that was manageable. Here in Mysore, the power went out this morning, this afternoon, three times tonight already. I remember how South Africa was bitterly complaining about the load-shedding last year. Well here in India, people seem to have just accepted it as the norm. In Kovalam there were a lot of generators, whereas here people use backup batteries that store power when the power is on for computers etc, but often the power is off for so long that the battery also dies. So then there is no internet available, lassies and fruit juices (they are made from the fruit and vegetables on site) are all not available. So, in other words, due to yet another power outage, I could not get a lassie (Anu's internet cafe makes awesome lassies) and I went searching for something sweet. Cubs is a bakery and small restaurant, which is quite posh. It has a few TV screens up and seems to have proper power backup and I found some awesome chocolate and ice cream that is safe to eat because there is constantly power.

Thursday (5)
Today was a very special day, although I did not really feel elation or anything of the sort when it happened. I had completed my compulsory first week of doing primary series and when Sharath came to help me with my back-bends he asked if I had done Paschasana the last time I came to Mysore, to which I had not. But the good news was that he did say that I could do Paschasana from next Wednesday. I felt that it was a validation of the fact that I had started moving into second series by myself. Sharath allowing me to move on meant a lot, because it is here in Mysore that they don't allow you to move on until you have "mastered" the primary.

I met Kerry & Mel at Shakti House where I had breakfast and joined Sylvia and Miranda to go shopping at Fab India and three jewelry stores. Fab India is a very well known chain store around India that has silk and cotton clothing and home goods such as bed spreads, table cloths etc. Jewelry in Mysore is known to be cheap, but I think not by South African standards. Miranda and Sylvia bought a lot at Fab India and Miranda did end up buying some bangles.

In the afternoon I went to my sanskrit classes and then met Kerry for supper at Chakra house. I have been asking at Chakra house to organise me a scooter, but secretly I am glad that they have not done so yet. I am enjoying walking around, taking life slowly, and not being drawn into the stresses of the traffic. I suppose that soon I do want start exploring further out of Gokulam and I want to see if I can remember where all the secret little gems are, like the 'Maha Idli man'.

Friday (6)
Time flies by so quickly. I have already been away from home for 3 weeks now. Fridays is lead class of which there are two, 4:30 and 6:15. I have to go to the later one because I am a student who has just arrived recently, so I awoke at 5 and got up finally at 5:30. We waited in the dark on the steps outside the shala while the first class was finishing and then rushed in to find a space in the shala and place our mats side by side. It was my first lead class with Sharath since 2 years ago and I was excited and attentively listened to his chanting when he began. In the last two years, I had learnt the chanting off by heart and since I began teaching I wanted to get all the pronunciation and intonations right. I had done the Sanskrit reading & writing and the chanting courses and had bought a lot of chanting CD's of Manju, Richard Freeman, Sharath and Guruji. I had decided that I liked Manju's chanting the most and did not like Sharath's at all, but I listened to Sharath with a fresh ear and I realised that he was the intonations, just more subtly. He then took us through primary and to my surprise he made us do five Sun Salutes for A and three Sun Salutes for B. On his DVD, he does only 3 each and he counts really fast, which was also my experience two years ago. People called him the steam train, but this time he took it really slow and the entire practice lasted for longer than an hour and a half. Headstand, which he counted 15 for, I actually counted sixty of my own breaths, and he even let us lie down and rest after completion of the series for a few minutes. He still has his trademark humour. He does not allow anybody to rush him, i.e.: you cannot move into upward dog before he has said pancha (five), so when somebody does, we would all be holding chatvari (four) while he would reprimand the person saying something like, "Why you in a hurry, are you hungry?" or "have you got a?".

I then went home and had a quick shower. It was 8 o'clock and I felt fantastic, with the prospect of a full day ahead, a party at Santosha tonight and a rest day tomorrow. However, I soon found that I was actually battling to adjust to the fact that I nothing to do. Not something I remember having felt in years!!! Kerry made the comment that it will be good for me to do nothing, and Garth commented that at home we often do things that we think are important, but in actual fact are not and that it is important for us to sometimes not do anything. I just feel I want to be productive, learn something, experience something, etc. I don't even feel like reading a novel, because I could be reading something about yoga and learning something new!
Just the other day, Kerry said she was grumpy because her teacher Venkatesh said that the actual pose does not matter, as it will not help you achieve self-realization, but that we should experience every moment of the journey into the pose and this reminded me of a quote of David Williams, that Nancy told us, "It does not matter if you can touch your toes or not, it will not bring you any closer to God anyway!".

On Friday evening I went to a party at Santosha. They had over 130 people buy tickets for Rs 400 each. The money would go to Operation Shanti, which looks after 23 street kids from Mysore. When we walked into the party, they had about 6 children sitting on the floor and eating. They were so incredibly cute!
There were buckets of food and we all sat on the roof and chatted while the sun went down. Then there was an Indian magician doing tricks for us, then there was a guy who goes around catching snakes from peoples houses for a living. I had seen him on another day dropping off school kids. He says he lives on what people donate to him to catch the snakes, as the government does not support him and he feels that humans are encroaching on the snakes territory and we should not kill the snakes. He looked a bit like a pirate, with a bandana round his thick long head of hair, a pair of big sunglasses on top of that, armbangles on his arms and a big ring on every finger. He brought a few snakes to show us, which was quite exciting. One incident, which was quite funny, was when a big fast moving snake that he held up was twisting and knotting itself around his arm and someone shouted, "look the snake is doing Marichyasana D", which is one of the deepest twists everybody struggles with in their practice.
Afterwards, there was an auctin of items that had been donated, like ear-rings, a painting by a renowned Mysore artist, shirts signed "Guru" by the coconut stand man, a massage, a trip in a car for a whole day etc. The mood was very good and we had lots of fun, and people really spent a lot of money on these items, as all the money was being raised for Operation Shanti. They said that last year they had raised over 100 000 dollars. Afterwards there was a raffle (we had all also bought tickets for that) and then two yogi's demonstrated some Odissi dancing they had learnt while staying here in Mysore. The night ended with some Kirtan.

Saturday (7)
This morning I woke around 7, but snoozed until about 10 and headed to Alia's Om Cafe for some home-made muesli for breakfast (oats roasted with huney and butter, peanuts roasted and crushed and mixed). I was glad to have a day off, and it felt good to just sit and chat until 12:30. Garth, who had been on the Anatomy course this week, said that the Chiropractor giving the course siad that a chiropractor should be clicking the bones that are not normally clicking and leaving those bones that normally click alone. We should not click bones very often. It is a bad habit. Big joint, such as the hip or shoulder, clicking is not bad, but the small joints should not click.
Afterwards I went to a book shop and then finally got a scooter.

The scooter's odometer, speedometer and petrol gauges do not work so I guess I will be running out of petrol some time soon! At least the scooter did come with a helmet. On my last trip I had been fined Rs 100 and Kerry has already been fined and then went to buy a helmet, which cost exactly the same amount as the fine. I spent two hours just riding around town reacquainting myself with the lay of the town. I found the Maha Idli Man again, and I got a sunburn.

At 4 I met Garth, Shelly and Mel to go to movies. Garth had looked on the net for a movie, because the local Kannata (that is the language spoken in Karnataka state) movies are apparently terrible. He found a Hindi Bollywood movie, called Raaz - they msytery continues, which was a horror movie. I was seriously considering not going because I am not into horrors and we had had some other recommendations (like Slumdog Millionaire, Luck by Chance and Chandy Chowk goes to China), but decided to just go for the experience. It happened to be in the same cinima house I went to 2 years ago. I only know of 2 cinema complexes here in Mysore. Mel bought us all some popcorn, which comes in little packets and is masala (spicy). The movie was actually very very good and I have not jumped like that in a long long time, but it was strange having singing and dancing during the romantic scenes in a horror movie. The movie review did mention that Bollywood has not quite grasped the genre yet. Another interesting thing about the movie is that there was actual tongue action in the movie and the actress was showing a lot of skin, which has made headlines.

Sunday (8)
My practice this morning was really hard and then I realized that it was moon-day tomorrow. I am trying to make sure that this moon-day thing is not just something in my head, but Sharath does also say that our bodies are stiffer on moon-day, and my practice was not good even after a day of rest. After practice I quickly found a spot in the foyer, close ot the door, to watch the 3rd lead class, which is second series. Kino McGregor was in the class and watching those people, it seemed like they definitely did not experience any bad effects from the moon! It looks so beautiful and graceful. Inspirational!!!

Then I rushed off to the organic market, which still happens every Sunday at 9, but had moved away from the Green Hotel. The market was disappointing today, so I went and chatted a while over breakfast. I organised with Kerry for her to show me RashinKar's Book store and Yogic Supplies where I bought myself some books and a yoga mat. The yoga mat still needs to be embroidered, so I will hopefully be able to pick it up tomorrow evening, so that I have it before Tuesday morning's practice.
Then it was Sanskrit course and afterwards there was an exhibition called Taxi at Alia's. I photographer who is based in London had taken some photos of taxis and rickshaws in India. I went to socialise and met Indra, who is also going to the yoga festival in Rishikesh, and who actually ran course on yoga for kids this weekend. I was sad I had forgotten about it, as I would have liked to do it.

Rishikesh

Namaste, this is your cross legged guru coming from the yoga capital of the world... Well that is what Rishikesh calls itself, and this is with some justification, because there are a multitude of ashrams, not just shala's where you practice yoga, but ashrams where you live and do yoga, lining the ganges river banks and hugging the slopes of the foothills of the Himalayas. Even the hotels have got daily yoga sessions taking place at the hotel, which outsiders can also join for a fee of about Rs 100.

So let me start from the beginning. On Wednesday, the 7th of March, I left McLeod Ganj and got on the bus in Dharamsala for Dehra Dun, which was supposed to be a 12 hour trip. We left at 17:30, but only arrived in Dehra Dun around 13:00 on Thursday, due to the fact that the bus got a punctured tire sometime after midnight. I was snoozing and only got out of the bus to see what was going on around four or five am. By that time they were busy putting a spare tyre on but I do not know what took them so long. When we finally got going we went to get the tyre that was just put on, replaced... I have a suspicion that the tyre was borrowed. Well we finally got going again after seven.

When we arrived in Dehra Dun, people started getting off at different places until only three tourists (including myself) were left and the bus driver decided to drop us off in the middle of some busy intersection (I guess he wanted to get rid of us so he could get some shut eye), so the three of us had to catch bus number 5 to the ISBT (Inter State Bus Terminal), which we found out by asking the shop keepers around us. The "bus" was more like the rickshaws used in Malaysia and Thailand, slightly bigger than the black and yellow kerosene burning rickshaws used in India, and it has 2 bunks on which you can seat 3 people each. It was not fun in the midday heat with all my baggage and the fact that I had felt nauseaus since I got onto the bus (I think it was the fried BakLek I had at the restaurant before leaving - I won't be looking at any more fried food in a while!) and had not eaten since did not help. I eventually stopped a "bus" that was not completely packed and got on with all my gear. It ended up being almost half an hours drive to the ISBT, which I did not expect and the "bus" filled up very quickly until we were squashed in with 4 on each bunk and all my gear on other peoples laps...

At the ISBT I caught a local bus to Rishikesh, which was another one and a half hours away, and was another terribly squashing experience. I was alone now even though the other 2 tourists were also going to Rishikesh because we could not all fit on "bus" number 5.

So I eventually got to Rishikesh just before 16:00. I had intended getting there early in the morning and hoped to do some yoga during the day, but it was not to be. I had gone through the lonely planet and found the conglomeration of ashrams I found most interesting. Getting off the bus I had the usual trouble with rickshaw touts and walked two or three hundred metres away from the bus station where I was still charged 4 times the price locals pay (Rs 5), but it was still only two thirds of what I would have paid at the bus station.

It took me a while to finally decide on an ashram. Along the way I met people staying at the Shivananda ashram who told me that the yoga there was not so nice and they were actually looking for an afternoon yoga session at another ashram. We crossed the pedestrian bridge over the holy river "mother" ganges, and looked at 2 ashrams on the other side. The girls ended up joining the yoga class at one of them, even though they were half an hour late. I decided to go to the previous ashram we had looked at, the Parmarth Niketan Ashram.

In India, so many things happen by coincidence... I found out later that this was the largest ashram in Rishikesh with over 1000 rooms, and on arriving I found out that the International Yoga festival had just taken place here from the 1st to the 7th of March. If I had known, I would have come to Rishikesh instead of gone to McLeod Ganj... anyway, will have to do this another time.

I had to wait quite some time to be helped, but I eventually got a room for Rs 400 a night, which includes all meals and all the yoga sessions at the ashram... Excellent!
At 18:00 until 19:00 every evening there is aarti at the banks of the ganges, run by this ashram. Aarti is prayer ceremonies and is basically lots of singing and clapping hands sitting at the ghats (steps down to the river). According to the literature here it is world famous and it was quite a pleasant experience.
After that we had supper, which was thali. I was actually looking forward to rice and dal, as I had not had any since I left the south of India.
The gates to the ashram close at 22:00, and the town is actually dead by that time because all the shops close between 19:00 and 21:30.

Friday
I got up in time for the seven o'clock Iyengar class with Karin O'Bannon, which was quite good, but typical of the Iyengar style, she took one single pose, the warrior pose, and we worked on that for the entire one and a half hours, just perfecting alignment. This is a great complement to Ashtanga yoga in my opinion, but of course you never ever break into a sweat. Straight afterwards I went to the Kundalini Yoga session until ten o'clock. This was a more energetic class and includes lots of chanting and the movements are timed, but I did not enjoy Kundalini very much.
At the end of class someone called my name and guess who happened to be at the same ashram in India... it was Kerry, the owner of the Haum of Yoga in Johannesburg. As breakfast time at the ashram was over, we went to a nice little restaurant outside and caught up with each other. Kerry had come to India specifically for the International Yoga Festival and told me more about it. She wants to get a group of South Africans to go together next year. She also said that the Kundalini Yoga during the festival was much much better and was led by Gurmukh Kaur Khalsa, a sentiment I had heard before too.

Kerry also made an insightful comment that I thought I would share. There are seven chakras along the body's axis. We were discussing how difficult it is to travel in India and she explained that while travelling in India you are operating from your root chakra, because you are always on the defensive, and therefore it is very difficult to operate from your heart chakra and be open and loving to others.

Lunch at the ashram was another simple thali with rice, dal, a vegetable, chapati and some pickled mixed vegetables (achar) which I enjoyed. At three o'clock I said good-bye to Kerry, as she was leaving for Delhi and I gave her the biltong I had been carrying since the beginning of my trip (I have been living on a pure vegetarian diet since arriving at Purple Valley) as she wanted to give it to a South African friend in Delhi.

At 15:30 I did another yoga class which focused on backbending. It was the first time I had ever gone into the full back-bend without having generated all the internal heat through the ashtanga yoga sequence.

Supper was another Thali with different vegetables and was very good again... I really enjoyed the food at the ashram even though it was very very simple.

Saturday
My last day at the ashram. A very unexpected rain shower woke me up in the early hours of the morning. I then joined the satsang at 6 o'clock, which basically consisted of meditating for an hour while the sun was coming up, listening to chanting music in the background and a candle lit in front of us. There were only three of us at the session.

The next available class was the Kundalini at 8:30, but I decided to go look at the yoga at another ashram. I watched as they started and decided not to join as it was just too calm and easy for my taste. I ended up spending four hours on the Internet working on the blog and then had lunch at the ashram... guess what it was... Thali... but I enjoyed it again.

After lunch I decided to explore the town more and strolled up to Lakshman Jhula (pedestrian bridge) and further up along the ganges and then turned back and crossed the ganges on the bridge, walked back down the other side and crossed back over on the Swarg Ashram Jhula. This was about a three or four hour walk, during which I saw many signs for a 7 day Ashtanga Yoga retreat.
On the way I bought some gooseberries. I did not expect to see gooseberries in India and when asked what it is, the locals call them raspberries and cherries and who knows what else, because they don't know the English name. I then realised that there were monkeys around and quickly had to make an escape, only to realise that where I was now standing on the street there were two more monkeys watching me from the roof of the building. So I ate them very quickly.

A quick comment on the holy cows... They are everywhere, even crossing the pedestrian bridges, and of course they shit everywhere, so you have to watch where you step ALL the time. In the mornings some hay gets put out by the ghats next to the river, but after that the cows forage in dustbins etc around town. I have heard that they sometimes die from eating plastic packets and I have personally seen a cow literally eat the posters off the walls using its tongue to tear pieces of paper away.

After the walk I bought another four books at a great little store that gave twenty percent discount on top of the very cheap prices. I then joined the evening aarti at the ashram again and then headed off to my room where I showered and got ready for my forty hour trip back home. During that time, the heavens opened up again and I was looking at a very wet trip to the bus station. I went and had another Thali for supper.... mmmm... I love this ashram... another full belly and I am ready to leave.
I asked the guys if there was anyway to have a taxi come pick me up at the ashram because of the rain, but this was not possible, because there are NO bridges for cars!!! Luckily the rain had died down and I did not get too wet hiking to the other side. I was wearing my shorts and long pants as well as a t-shirt, long-sleeved top, and wind breaker, even though it was not very cold. This was only to ensure that I could fit all my stuff into my bags. I had also donated my towel and some other t-shirts to the ashram.

On the other side I had to bargain for a taxi to the bus station because with the rain, the taxi driver was not going to be able to pick up any other passengers. The bus was supposed to leave at 21:30, but I got there at around 20:50, just in case it left early. I could not afford to miss any of my modes of transport from now on. My bus was scheduled to arrive in Delhi after four in the morning and there was no other bus that evening. The bus the next day would have been too late to catch my flight to Mumbai, which left at 14:00.
I was however quite undisturbed if any of my modes of transport were delayed, because I did not relish the thought of arriving at four am in Delhi and I had plenty of time to spare in between. As it turned out, the bus we were all waiting for at the travel agent never arrived, so the travel agent quickly packed the seven or eight of us into two taxi's and took us to the bus station where there was pandemonium because people had paid for sleepers and were not getting sleeper seats etc. I was refunded the Rs 250 I had paid and paid Rs 200 to the conductor on this bus. I was relieved that I did get a seat though, because the bus was full!!!

Sunday
We arrived in Delhi around five in the morning and I read my Lonely Planet to figure out what I would do until it was time to go to the airport. I decided to go look for a yoga or meditation class in the city and afterwards have breakfast and then do some final shopping.
I left my big backpack at the cloak room at the bus station and then took the Metro for Rs 9 to Connaught Place.
I had chosen to visit the Morarji Desai National Institute of Yoga, and guess what I found when I got there. They are holding a National Yoga Week from the 12th to the 16th of March. It would have cost a mere Rs 1200 for the entire week, including accommodation and meals... That is incredibly cheap. But the fact that there is so much happening around yoga wherever I look, makes me think that yoga is well and alive in India!!!
There was unfortunately no classes that I could attend because everybody was apparently preparing for the yoga week.

So I headed back to Connaught Place to find a restaurant serving up some good south indian breakfast... my last chance :-). I found a restaurant that was open at 8am on a Sunday morning and was recommended by the Lonely Planet. However, the idli's were tiny, the dosa was too thin and Delhi was extremely expensive. I remember having breakfast with Ayu at a restaurant in Mysore and we had four plates of idli, and three plates of dosa and four cups of chai and it all came to about Rs 58. One plate of tiny idli's here cost Rs 45.

After enquiring what the best option would be to get to the airport, I headed back to the bus station to collect my bag. I got back to Connaught place around 10:30 when some stores started opening up, but most remained closed because it was Sunday. I started searching for masala chai... spices for the tea in India. As Connaught place was not a residential area and had no general stores, only brand stores, I was very unsuccessful in finding tea spices.

At around noon I looked for a public bus to the airport but was unsuccessful as well and eventually resigned myself to having to pay about Rs 250 for a rickshaw. Luckily I found a very helpful gentleman who told me to wait in the building, while he got me a rickshaw for the true price of Rs 60 or 70. Eventually I got a rickshaw for Rs 90, plus Rs 10 for the bags, which I was very happy with. On the way to the airport I struck a deal with the rickshaw driver to make a detour to some shops to buy Masala Chai.

My flight was slightly delayed and we arrived in Mumbai just before five in the afternoon, but I was very impressed again with the service on Jet Airways and the food. We were served Baskin and Robbins ice cream after lunch, so I had three helpings :-)
After I got my bags, I took the shuttle transfer to the international terminal where I had to spend seven hours waiting. This is the same terminal where I had spent the first few hours of my trip (when I arrived in India) waiting until morning. The food in the terminal was extremely expensive at four times the price on the street, and so was the internet cafe.

At midnight I joined the long queue to have my bags security checked and they actually asked me to open my backpack to get my alarm clock. They took out the battery, so that the clock would not tick. The aeroplane was new and big and more spacious than any of the domestic flights I had been on, but the service on SAA was not very good. I did not have anyone sitting next to me, which was lucky as the flight was 95% full. We landed at 7:15 and I was happy to be home.

McLeod Ganj

In the morning, Saturday the 3rd, I woke up to find the weather very gloomy and overcast, but seeing the first glimpse of the Himalaya's was still nice. The roads were extremely narrow and the bus climbed up the windy path with deep gorges falling off to the sides. At one stage the road made such a serious curve, there was a sign that said "Dead Slow" and the bus really did take that turn inch by inch. But overall, I did not find it as scary as people made it out to be.
In Dharamsala, we had to change bus for the last 10 km stretch (4km by foot, but the road is longer because of the steep incline). When I got to the bus stand, which is basically the town square and is no bigger than the floorspace of a small restaurant, I started phoning all the hotels mentioned in the lonely planet looking for a room, but as expected everything was full.

Because checkout was only around noon, I started walking through town and the first thing I did was register for the teachings. I am glad I did, because as the day progressed the queue only got longer and longer. When I registered I asked how much it was and the guy said five, so I pulled out Rs 500. No, it was Rs 5. They could make so much more money, but they are a very honest people!!!
The teachings started on Saturday, but the official start was only on Sunday, so I had not really missed anything.
I then found a place for learning Tibetan cooking. On the menu for that evening's course was Momo's. I had never had them but had heard lots about them, so I registered for the course. I also found lots and lots of nice things I could buy... hmmm, pity about that weight limit... I am trying to make plans how I can increase the size of the single luggage item I can carry on with me :-)

After having some breakfast just before noon, I started searching for available rooms and eventually found a room for Rs 600, but I wanted to see other options. I walked to the next town, Bhagsu, 2 km away, and found rooms available there for Rs 400 with TV, but I did not like the place very much, so I went back to McLeod Ganj. By the time I got back that room for Rs 600 was taken. Damn, I could have kicked myself!!! Eventually I got a room at the Hotel Tibet for Rs 810, but it is a deluxe room normally going for Rs 990. They gave me a 20% discount. It had been a long search and I needed a rest and watched some TV.

In the late afternoon, I headed out into the freezing cold. People are walking around with blankets draped around them and warm jackets etc and so far all I have is my windbraker... At least I have a nice room and warm water... the cheaper rooms do not have hot water and I am willing to pay the extra money for that commodity :-).

At 5pm I went to Lhamo's kitchen for the cooking course. We made 3 kinds of tibetan momo's: veg, spinach & cheese and sweet momo's. We used three different designs in the dough to identify which were which, and teaching us how to create these designs took most of the time, but it was good because it was much more hands on training than Tina's courses were.
They were my first taste of momo's and they were devine. I was later to find out that they were much better than the ones one could buy at the street side stalls.
What was also nice was that Lhamo gave us a glimpse into his life... he was born in Tibet and escaped over the Himalaya's when he was 9 or 13 (I forgot). He is now 29 and has not seen his mother since except that he got a note from her last year that she is fine. A cousin of his escaped last year and Lhamo is looking after him now. In India, they cannot get citizenship and they remain refugee's and therefore cannot open their own businesses in India, and because they never get a passport, can not return to Tibet.

Unfortunately the quantity of food that we prepared did not fill my tummy... and later that evening I was overcome with cravings again and I gave into them and I ended up buying 5 different chocolates and ate them while watching TV.

Sunday
The next morning I got up around ten past seven. It was a beautiful day with the sun shining... no more overcast skies!!! It was going to be like this for the rest of my stay and it really warmed up, so I was glad.
I was told to be at the teachings at eight because it is so packed. The teachings are from 9:30 to 11:30 and again from 13:00 to 15:30. I bought some banana's for breakfast on the way down to the Tsuglagkhang complex where the teachings are being held, and I found a transistor radio with earphones and batteries for Rs 170. Could have got it cheaper, but as unprepared as I was, I had to pay the extra Rs 50. On the way in, there are seperate cues for the public, the monks and nuns and foreigners. The foreigner queue was split into male and female because we were all searched very thoroughly. We are not allowed to take in any cell phones or cameras. The guy actually turned on my radio to ensure that it was really a radio. Impressive!!!
I remember that at the railway stations, before getting on the platforms you have to walk through a metal detector (with your bags), but because there are so many people, the guards just let everybody walk through and the metal detector is constantly beeping...

I was lucky I got a very good place in the courtyard, because I only got in around 8:50. At first I was right at the back but right on the walkway where the Dalai Lama walked from his residence to the central chapel where he would sit and teach. The first time I saw him I was struck by how joyous and happy he seemed to be. After he had walked through, the security removed the security tape and some of us could move onto the walkway, which meant I moved right into the centre and sat on the red carpet... Yes, I was also unprepared in that respect because I had no cushion to sit on. The things people are allowed to bring to the teachins are a mug (they serve tea during the teachings), a blanket and cushion, food, hat, umbrella and a radio with earphones. The monks then came in with huge baskets full of rolls and started distributing these and then started walking around serving tea.

The teachings always start and end with Tibetan chants / prayers. Then the Dalai Lama started teaching. He said that even though he had covered the introduction to buddhism the day before, there were many people who had not been there, so he covered it again.
His teachings cover two texts, namely, "A guide to the Boddhisattva way of life" by Shantideva and translated by Steven Bachelor, and "The essence of superfine gold" written by the 3rd Dalai Lama. It is quite complicated material for the uninitiated like myself :-).
He spoke about how important education is and then he went on saying that our minds fool us into thinking that we have an independant existence, and he tried to inspire us to develop the wisdom to understand this incorrect view and that there is no absolute independant existence. We are all connected and there are infinite number of contributing factors to each and every event.

It was also nice that he used personal experiences which were quite humerous while teaching, for example telling us about his travels to the west and an air-hostess swatted a mosquito in front of him as a pure reaction and then felt very guilty and told him that she would never kill another mosquito.

I went to the afternoon teaching session as well and in the evening after having a rest I walked up to Dharamkot, the next village up a very steep incline. I eventually found the Tushita meditation centre where an australian woman who was a buddhist gave a review of the days teachings.

Monday
On Monday my mood was not very good. I suspected it was because I had no plan for the rest of the week and because my body was missing the daily yoga practice. I did not attend the teachings, but did some window shopping. There is so much on offer here in terms of souvenirs: books, shawls made from yak wool, jackets and blankets made from wool, shirts, skirts, traditional jewellery, wall hangings with quotations from the Dalai Lama, music CD's of tibetan chants and DVD's of the Tibetan struggle and other stories or documentaries, embroidered bags that the buddhist monks use, tangka's (see glossary on right), note books made from re-cycled pater and the list carries on.

My cravings continued and today it was baked cake and pastries. There are many places selling sweet tibetan bread, all different kinds of cake and pastries and as I have not even seen any of this in five weeks it was too much to resist. I must have had about five pieces of cake during the day.
I also went in search of a place I could practice my yoga, but the yoga instructors all seem to be out of town during the teachings (I found out where they were later... see next post). I also looked at doing some karma yoga, ie: volunteering, while I was here, but I was told that the computer classes and english conversation classes were not running during the teachings. (There are different types of yoga, jana yoga, karma yoga, hatha yoga, raj yoga etc, which I will explain more in my final post).

I ended up doing half an hour of yoga, to the beginning of the seated poses in my hotel room... (I realised how dirty the floor is :-)) and this helped both my mood and my spine, which felt a lot better after the exercise.
I also came up with a plan for the rest of the week, which is to go to Rishikesh, which calls itself the yoga capital of the world. So now I had done some exercise and I had a plan and I felt a lot better.

As mentioned earlier, we were not allowed to take in any cameras during the teachings, so I waited until after the teachings were finished in the afternoon and then walked in and took a photograph, which is why there is a photograph of the teachings available on my web album.

At five pm I went to the cooking class with Lamo again and we made Mokthup and Tenthuk soup. I was disappointed because I was going to come on Tuesday to make tibetan bread, but Lhamo was not able to do that class.
The soup was good and easy to make. This time Lhamo told us a little more about the culture and customs of the Tibetan people. Usually a family will live together and each has got a duty so sometimes one brother will leave for 3 months to look after the animals in the mountains, but they remain a family unit and when one brother takes a wife, the other brothers usually share that wife. It is uncommon for a brother to then choose another wife for himself as this would mean he would not live together with his brothers... anyway, that is how Lhamo explained it to us.

In the evening I met Ori, an Israeli tourist who told me that he had attended the review of the day's teachings, which were now not held at the Tushita meditation centre anymore, but were being done by the monk who was doing the english translation of the teachings and it was held at the temple itself. So I made sure that I would attend that the next day.

Tuesday
In the morning I attended the teachings again, and in the afternoon I made an excursion to the waterfall in Bhagsu. Afterwards I went to the Himalayan Yoga centre where I had organised the day before that I could practice by myself. It was nice because the view from the window was onto the mountains. But my practice was slow and I took lots of breaks. I do not know if this was because of the altitude (approximately 1800 m above sea level) or because I was practicing alone.

Later I went to the review of the day's teachings, which was interesting.
He spoke about favourable rebirths (precious humban birth) in samsara (the cycle of reincarnation or rebirth) and performing the 10 virtuous actions and abandoning the 10 non-virtuous actions to gain liberation from samsara.
He also discussed that the goal of enlightenment should not be for oneself, but for the benefit of all other sentient beings, and how to cultivate the boddhicitta (the wish to become buddha to benefit all other sentient beings).
He also defined love as being the wish to give happiness to others and compassion as the wish to remove suffering from all other beings.

Afterwards I would have liked to see a tibetan movie, but unfortunately the one cinema (part of a tiny little restaurant) was not showing anything and the other one was showing something I had no interest in.
I ended up eating at the Japanese restaurant Lung Ta, where I met a french canadian yoga teacher and I had an interesting discussion with him.

Wednesday
I woke up early on Wednesday and bought some tibetean bread from the street side vendors. Previous mornings I was not up early enough to see them.
I then went for a walk towards Dal Lake through the forest. I have blisters on my feet from all the walking I have been doing around town, but it is good to get the exercise and this walk was beautiful.

I then had some breakfast and purchased my bus ticket to Rishikesh (Rs 470) for 17:30 from Dharamsala.
Then I got down to some real shopping. I did not worry about the consequences to the weight of my bags and had decided to throw away some of my clothes to make sure I can fit everything. :-) I then went to the hotel to pack and check out.
In the afternoon I walked back towards Dal Lake because the lighting in the morning was not that good and I wanted to take some better photographs.

I then had a quick bite to eat before getting a jeep ride down to Dharamsala. The driver threw my backpack onto the roof as there was no space in the jeep... we were packed in there like sardines. On the way down I was constantly checking if my backpack was not thrown off the roof with inertia as it was not tied down and the driver was screaming through the sharp corners.

New adventures

Yesterday, Thursday, I went to practice early. The shala was getting emptier every day. I did not expect anything from my practice, but it ended up being really good again... I bound Marichyasana D on my right side and I bound Supta Kurmasana again... so all in all I have had a great week of practice.
I think I have pushing Supta Kurmasana a little too hard because my lower back is being stretched forward to its limits and is a little tender.
The weather has been warming up the last few days and I have been perspiring more than my first week in Mysore, even though I was practicing earlier, around 6 am. In guruji's shala, the mornings are for westerners and the indians (there are very few) train in the afternoon, and they must be suffering...

After practice I had coconut jelly outside the shala where we normally all meet and chat for a little after practice. I thought I would just tell you a little about the coconuts here...
When you order a coconut, you have to tell the "coconut man" whether you want juice only or jelly. He then determines by the slight difference in sound the coconut makes when he taps it which one is only juice or if it is a little older and has started solidifying. He then chops off the end of the coconut and hands it to you with a straw to drink the juice out. If you ordered jelly, you hand him back the coconut and he chops off a sliver of the green outer layer, which you will use as a spoon and he chops the coconut in half, so you can scoop out the jelly and eat it.
Indians use the entire coconut tree... the leaves are used as plates and to make roofs, the trunk is building material and fire wood, and the young coconut fruit is juice and the shell is dried and used as fuel for fires. If the coconut is not used while still young it turns to jelly or the hard coconut, which is used in food and as garnishing food. Once the coconut is really old and completely hard, the inside is cold pressed and coconut oil is made from it. Also the hard brown shell is used to make spoons and lately arts and crafts too.

I then went to Tina's to say goodbye to everyone and Tina was packed some fenugreek roti's with tomato chutney for me to eat on the train... Leena was there as well and she had finished her panchakarma ayurvedic detoxification treatment. She has been quite down the last few days and yesterday she fainted twice and she think her nose is broken. Tina was saying that panchakarma should only be used as a last resort, but this doctor is prescribing it to every single Yogi who is coming to him...

I then had to return my mattress and scooter to Randy and pick up my yoga rug which I had embroidered... It was late because there was a power cut the day before... something you have to expect in India... I have even read in the newspaper that they want to shorten the business hours (go on until 21:30 or 22:00 and are closed around 12 to 4:30) in some cities to take the pressure off the electricity grids.

On the way to the railway station (if you ask for the train station they don't know what you mean) I picked up the pants I had tailored. I got to the train station half an hour early. I had bought a second class ticket on the Tippy express to Bangalore for Rs 70. At the airport I met Michael who was on the same flight (unbeknown to both of us until then) and he had come by taxi for Rs 1,500.
The train took about 3 hours to do the 135 km journey and the last few kilometres were excruciatingly slow considering I still had to go to the airport for my flight at 4pm. The train arrived at 14:15. As soon as I got off the platforms, I was harassed by taxi touts and offered rides to the airport for Rs 280 to 450. I really don't like tourists that pay without finding out what the locals pay because it is cheap in their currency and it is convenient. That is the cause of the harassment for others and the cause that tourists get ripped off. I went to the info booth and found out where I can get pre-paid taxi's and paid Rs 85. My rickshaw driver, Harish, was very nice and friendly and apologized on the way for having to get petrol as he knew I was in a rush. I got to the airport at 15:15 only to find out that the flight was delayed by 2 hours. Well that mean that I was not going to be able to get onto the bus to McLeod Ganj and I had to spend last night in Delhi.
Btw, my backpack was packed to the brim and weighed just under 20 kg and my daypack (hand luggage weighed another 10 kg. It contains the books I did not ship (package limit of 5 kg). When I left SA it all weighed around 12 kg.

While driving through Bangalore, I saw many signs advertising the coming of Amma to Bangalore on the 4th and 5th of March, just as I had seen in Mysore for the 1st and 2nd of March.

The flight with Jet Airways was very good again and the food delicious. I had the non-veg option again, chickpeas in gravy with potato patties. There was also a little packet named "After Eight", which I assumed would be chocolate, but this turned out to be a mixture of some seeds, but mainly aniseed, to freshen the mouth. It was good though.
Even though I had been sitting for most of the day, I was extremely exhausted and did not have the energy to get up to get my Lonely Planet guide and read up on Delhi, knowing that I would have to spend the night there. I was even thinking of spoiling myself and going to an expensive hotel in Delhi.

After the three hour flight, I found some energy and started informing myself of options. I phoned a few budget hotels in the Tibetan colony and was told that they were fully booked, or the telephone informed me that the number (from the lonely planet guide) did not exist. The number of the hotel that I finally got in the Paharganj area (described as a seedy area "due to its reputation for drugs and shady characters" in the lonely planet) worked on one phone, but when I phoned back on another phone it said the number did not exist, so I had to use the phone I originally got through on and it worked... very strange!!!

As I said in one of my first posts, on my first trip to India ten years ago, I had the worst culture shock I have ever experienced in all my travels and I got very stressed and aggressive. On that trip I only traveled through the north of India. On this trip I have been to the south so far and I have loved it so far. Now I was back in the north and people have been telling me that the north is far harder to travel in than the south, so I am expecting the worst.
I got a bus to the New Delhi train station for Rs 50 and then after having more attempts made at ripping me off by rickshaw drivers (like telling me that the hotel is already closed, so they can take me somewhere else and get commission) I decided to use my map and walk the last few hundred metres to the hotel using my map. A taxi would have been more convenient but a lot more expensive.

I finally got into my room around midnight. The room had a TV and cost Rs 250. I have not had a TV in 5 weeks... It is amazing how quickly we fall into old habits... I fell asleep with the TV on :-)
Delhi is a lot colder than the south of India was. The night was cold and required blankets. I also realized that I have strained my lower back, which was already saw from overstretching it, when I picked up my backpack to get onto the bus. I was considering finding a yoga shala for today but have decided to rest.

In the morning I went in search of food and walked around Paharganj... Vendors were starting to open their stores and I was in danger of buying more stuff!!! Delhi is extremely cheap. You can pick up a pair of shorts with pockets and beltloops etc for about five Rand or less if you bargain.
On the breakfast menu I could not find any idli's or dosas anymore... The south of India is the rice bowl of India and the north of India is the bread basket. Tina said that that is why the north has got all the big brawny indians and the south has got the intelligent indians :-)

I then went to the internet cafe and started writing this post, because I was not yet ready to tackle the nasty world out there. I had to rewrite this post 3 times because of the internet connection dropping, or computer rebooting unexpectedly... Other than this particular experience, my experience of the Indian broadband services has been excellent.

I then finally headed to the Inter State Bus Terminal (ISBT) near the old Delhi railway station. I wanted to experience the life and vibe on the streets so I decided to walk instead of take a rickshaw. On the way I found the Metro , which I had read about. It only became operational a little over 2 years ago. It has 3 operational lines now and it uses a disk system. You can buy a card for Rs 170 of which Rs 100 is refunded for a day pass. Otherwise you have to pay for every trip. I paid Rs 8 to go 3 or 4 stations on the same line. It goes up to about Rs 30 I think. After you bought the disk, you enter by swiping the disk, then when you arrive at the destination, you have to swipe the disk again to get out and drop the disk into the system. The metro train was absolutely packed every time I used it and I never had to waid for longer than a minute for the next train... and the station was quite clean considering the amount of people going through it and compared to the streets!!!

At the Kashmere station, which is also the old Delhi railway station and the ISBT, there was a McDonalds serving Chicken Maharaja Mac, Paneer (cheese) Salsa Wrap, McAloo (Potato) Tikki Burger, and Veg Surprise Burgers. The meals were about Rs 62. I held back the urge to taste the veg surprise.

I bought myself a ticket on the Deluxe Air Conditioned Bus (there is also another deluxe bus without AC) for Rs 800 to McLeod Ganj, because I wanted the safest and best bus, which left at 8pm that evening.
I then walked back to the hotel through Old Delhi, past the red fort and Jama Masjid, places I had visited on my first trip to India. Here is a snippet of Chandni Chowk, one of the main streets through Old Delhi. In the background is the old fort. There are 3 churches on the right hand side of the road, a Jain temple, a Hindu temple and a Sikh temple. The streets are extremely noisy because the culture is hooting to let people know you are coming instead of relying on them to watch out for you.




Here is another link to the main bazaar road in the Paharganj area where my hotel is, and here is one of street side vendors making jalebi, which is very unhealthy too, but I liked it.

At 6pm I got my bags from the hotel and headed back to the ISBT, which was absolute chaos. I had to wait because I arrived early and there are lots and lots of food stalls around and I finally gave into my cravings and bought 4 packets of biscuits and chips. The chips were "Lays" and the flavour was "Magic Masala". Everything you buy in India is marked with either a green dot or a red dot, signifying vegetarian or not.
I then had to search for the bus, which was not near any platform, because there were so many buses. We finally left just after 8pm. I had moved seats because the women sitting next to me was sick and I did not want to catch her cold. Luckily there were extra seats in the bus. Most people in the bus were on the way to the McLeod Ganj for the teachings and there were quite a few monks on the bus. People were coming from all over the world. The lady who I mentioned just now came from Darjeeling.

I thought I would never get any sleep because of all the hooting by the bus driver, but luckily this died down to a more acceptable level as we got out of town and onto the highway. At around ten o'clock, we made a pit stop. It was a themed place called Haveli, meaning fortress in Punjab. I was feeling ill from all the biscuits I had eaten but decided to try to eat something. The food was not that great, but after the meal I got served, what we would consider mints. See the picture on the right. It is jaggery (raw sugar), misry (which looks like sugar, tastes sweet but is not sugar) and then aniseed.
I was lucky because the man who sat next to me got off sometime during the night and I had both seats to myself, and I got some sleep.